What to see in Matera: a guide to its history, sights, and hidden gems
Matera, a city steeped in history and charm, offers an unforgettable journey through its ancient stone dwellings and breathtaking landscapes. In this guide, we’ll explore what to see in Matera, from its UNESCO-listed Sassi to stunning viewpoints and unique churches. Along the way, you’ll find useful tips & tricks to help you make the most of your visit to this fascinating city, blending past and present in a truly remarkable way.
Where is Matera?
Matera is located in the southern Italian region of Basilicata, perched on a rocky plateau overlooking the Gravina ravine. Nestled between the regions of Puglia and Calabria, Matera is about 65 kilometers (40 miles) from the Adriatic coast and 250 kilometers (155 miles) southeast of Naples.
Matera: quick history bites
Matera is divided into three different areas. On one side, the oldest town known as the Sassi district, where you can find the Sasso Barisano, the Sasso Caveoso, and the Civita, iconic areas that are responsible for Matera’s most famous imagery. On the other one, the contemporary area, built in the latter half of the 20th century after the evacuation of the Sassi. In between the two of them, Matera’s 18th and 19th-century neighborhoods developed during a time of growth and prosperity.
The Sassi (and the Civita) are undoubtedly the most renowned part of Matera, telling an ancient story that begins in the Paleolithic era and continues to the present day. Their unique homes and churches carved into calcarenite (a type of limestone rock) offer a one-of-a-kind glimpse into history. This ancient community’s way of life is best exemplified by the vicinati: clusters of homes centered around a shared open space, which served as hubs of cooperation and community for Matera’s residents.
However, overpopulation eventually caused this system to collapse, leading to a severe decline in living conditions throughout the city. Tiny homes, often no larger than a few square meters, were crammed with ten or more people, transforming Matera into a human anthill.
Everything changed when Carlo Levi’s book, Christ Stopped at Eboli* (1945), brought national attention to this corner of Basilicata. Levi’s vivid account of Matera’s appalling sanitary conditions and the alarmingly high infant mortality rates prompted a response from Rome and in 1952, Italian Prime Minister Alcide De Gasperi signed the Matera Evacuation Law, which led to the construction of the city’s contemporary districts—the first area you’ll encounter when arriving by car. Residents were relocated (with efforts made to preserve the unity of their vicinati), and the Sassi were cleared and restored. The book was adapted into a film of the same name (directed by Francesco Rosi) that was shot in Matera at the end of the 1970s.
Now everything’s changed: once labeled Italy’s “national shame”, Matera has now transformed into a symbol of resilience and rebirth, becoming a sought-after location for international film productions, like The Gospel According to Matthew by Pier Paolo Pasolini (1964), Anno Uno by Roberto Rossellini (1974), The Star Maker by Giuseppe Tornatore (1995), The Passion of the Christ directed by Mel Gibson (2004), Ben Hur, the 2015 remake by Timur Bekmambetov, and the twenty-fifth movie in the James Bond series No Time to Die (2021).
Furthermore, in 1993, the Sassi were also designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, cementing their historical and cultural significance, and, in 2019, the city achieved the prestigious title of European Capital of Culture.
TO DO: follow in the footsteps of James Bon, discover the relationship between the city of Matera and the cinema and witness places where different movies were shot with a guided tour*!
What to see in Matera
Matera is a treasure trove of history, culture, and unique architecture, making it one of Italy’s most fascinating destinations. From its ancient cave dwellings to its stunning rupestrian churches, every corner of Matera tells a story of resilience and transformation: here’s what to see in Matera and some fascinating curiosities and little-known facts that add even more depth to your visit.
TO DO: discover Matera’s ancient landscapes on a guided tour of Sassi*, exploring the UNESCO-listed site’s alleys, churches, and historical caves on a unique cultural adventure!
Piazza Vittorio Veneto and the Hypogeum
Piazza Vittorio Veneto sits on the border between Matera’s 19th-century district and the Sasso Barisano. It is one of the main squares in this part of the city, flanked by historic and cultural landmarks like the Provincial Library, housed in the former Annunziata Convent.
In the early 1990s, restoration work on the square’s foundations uncovered abandoned underground spaces abandoned in the late 19th century. Today, the Hypogeum, with the cave dwellings, is the true highlight of Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Here, the Palombaro Lungo stands out—a vast cistern that collected rainwater and served as the most important water reservoir for the Sassi over the centuries.
Furthermore, don’t forget to go to the Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio, a terrace located near the Mater Domini Church that provides a close and intimate perspective of the ancient cave dwellings.
TO DO: explore the largest underground site in Matera, the Hypogeum, with a guided tour*, learning about the history of the area with a multilingual audio guide.
Via delle Beccherie
Leaving Piazza Vittorio Veneto and heading towards Piazza Duomo, you’ll find via delle Beccherie, one of the most famous streets in Sasso Barisano. Its name derives from the old butcher shops (beccherie) that once lined its sides, though today it’s filled with shops and cafés.
Along this street stood Porta Pepice, a gate that no longer exists but is commemorated with a red cross on the ancient city walls. This is where you enter the Civita, the rocky spur that separates Sasso Barisano from Sasso Caveoso. As you approach this area, pay attention to the walls—they conceal small treasures.
Millennia ago, the entire area was covered by the sea. While the sea has left no trace in most of the homes or walls, there are some remnants on the city’s walls, but they are easy to overlook: seashells. Pay attention to them as you walk towards the Duomo.
Piazza Sedile
Via delle Beccherie opens into Piazza del Sedile, which for centuries housed prisons, the governor’s offices, and the town hall, also known as the “Sedile”, giving the square its name. Today, the Palazzo del Sedile, built in 1540, hosts the National Conservatory and dominates the square with its distinctive arched entrance and ornate decorations.
The terracotta statues on either side of the building represent the cardinal virtues necessary for good governance: strength, justice, prudence, and temperance. Meanwhile, the statues above depict Matera’s patron saints, Saint Eustace and Mary of the Bruna, who also lend their names to the city’s cathedral.
The duomo
The Cathedral, dedicated to Madonna della Bruna and located at the heart of the Civita, is a must-see when exploring Matera. Built in the 13th century in the Apulian Romanesque style, its simple facade overlooks one of the city’s most stunning viewpoints.
In contrast to its exterior, the interior is incredibly lavish, featuring intricate white and gold Baroque details that are truly breathtaking. It’s a surprising sight that leaves visitors in awe upon entering. Don’t miss the Last Judgment fresco, hidden for decades beneath an altar and now restored, as well as the rock-carved Nativity scene in the chapel to the left of the altar. This masterpiece is currently visible only through glass and at a distance, but it’s still an unforgettable sight.
From the small square in front of the Duomo, you can also admire a sweeping view of the entire Sasso Barisano from above. This vantage point offers a striking perspective on the dense concentration of cave dwellings, giving you a clearer understanding of the area’s unique layout.
PRO TIP
There’s no specific “best time” to visit Matera, but if you happen to be in the city in early July, you can participate in one of the most heartfelt celebrations of the Materan community: the Madonna della Bruna celebration. This day is known as “the longest day in Matera,” as it starts at dawn with the “Procession of the Shepherds” and ends at midnight with a fireworks show.
As part of this centuries-old event, also known as the Festa della Visitazione di Maria Santissima, a wooden and papier-mâché triumphal cart is prepared and paraded through the city, pulled by mules or horses, all the way to the Cathedral. Once it arrives, the people of Matera rush to the cart to take home some of its pieces, which are then displayed in homes as good luck charms. This practice is known as the “tearing of the cart.”
The cave dwellings (Case Grotta)
No visit to Matera is complete without exploring the Cave Dwellings (known as Case Grotta). Once the predominant type of housing in the Sassi, today only two remain preserved with original furnishings and are open to the public: the Casa Grotta in Casalnuovo and the one in Vico Solitario, both in Sasso Caveoso. Many others have been converted into museums, shops, restaurants, or tourist accommodations.
I visited the Casa Grotta of Vico Solitario, which is next to a snow cellar (used to store snow for water or resale) and the small rupestrian church of San Pietro in Monterrone. Inside, you can see how Sassi residents lived before the construction of the modern city. These homes often housed ten or more people, along with animals like donkeys and chickens, in a single open space. The interior typically included a tiny kitchen with basic necessities, a large bed for the family, a small table, some sparse furnishings, and numerous work tools.
This particular Casa Grotta was abandoned in the mid-1950s, like others in the Sassi, and visiting it makes it hard to believe it has only been a few decades since it was last inhabited.
The rupestrian churches
Scattered among the Cave Dwellings of the Sassi are numerous rupestrian churches (Chiese Rupestri), also carved into the stone. These include Madonna de Idris, Madonna delle Virtù, Santa Maria de Armenis, Santa Barbara, and Santa Lucia alle Malve.
Santa Lucia alle Malve, along with Madonna delle Virtù, is one of the most beautiful rupestrian churches in Matera. Dating back to the 9th century, it was primarily used by Benedictine nuns. Inside, brilliantly colored frescoes depict the Madonna and various saints, remarkably well-preserved despite the neglect the Sassi endured for decades.
And if you visit the church Madonna de Idris don’t forget to explore the Monterrone too, the rocky spur that houses the rock-hewn church. It is my favorite panoramic spot within Matera’s historic center because unlike other belvederes, this viewpoint offers a breathtaking 360-degree view of the entire Sasso Caveoso, the Murgia National Park, and the Gravina Ravine. As you take in the view, remember that what you see is just a fraction of the structures—most of them extend deep into the rock!
TO DO: take part in a complete tour of the rupestrian churches* and get ready for an unforgettable journey into the heart of Matera, where history, art, and spirituality come together.
The barbarian cemetery
The Necropolis of Rione Malve is an ancient Barbarian cemetery that’s easy to overlook. I visited it at night, but I recommend going during the day to appreciate it fully, as it lacks illumination. Located above Santa Lucia alle Malve, it has inspired locals and writers alike to say, “the dead lie above the living” here.
This site features Longobard-era rock tombs, now empty but partially filled with cement and stones to preserve their original shapes. You can freely walk around them, but be cautious as you explore.
The Church of Purgatory
After exploring the Sassi, return to the edge of the 19th-century city to find the Church of Purgatory, a Baroque masterpiece built in the 18th century.
Both its facade and interior are filled with symbols of mortality, including skulls and skeletons, but the vibrant colors and ornate decor of the single nave and dome are anything but grim. It’s well worth stepping inside.
The church of San Francesco d’Assisi
The church of San Francesco d’Assisi boasts one of Matera’s most stunning facades and sits at the boundary between the Sassi and the 19th-century district. While its origins date back to the 12th century, the church we see today reflects extensive renovations made between the 17th and 18th centuries.
Inside, you’ll find white stucco, Renaissance paintings, and frescoed chapels opening off the single nave. It’s a true gem to visit before saying goodbye to Matera and a fitting end to a journey through the city’s incredible sights.
The Murgia National Park
The Murgia National Park (Parco della Murgia Materana), located just outside the city, is a stunning natural and archaeological area that offers a stark contrast to Matera’s urban landscape. This vast park features dramatic cliffs, prehistoric caves, and over 150 rupestrian churches, some of which date back to the 8th century. It’s also a haven for wildlife and offers numerous hiking trails with spectacular views of the Gravina Gorge and the Sassi.
Once there, don’t miss the Murgia Timone Belvedere, which offers a complete view of the Sasso Caveoso and presents the city from an entirely new perspective, providing an unforgettable experience.
LOOKING FOR SOME ADVENTURE? Set out on the amazing hiking journey* to the bottom of the valley, discovering Rupestrian Churches in the midst of lush vegetation and admiring the city of the Sassi at sunset from a different perspective.
Tips & tricks to visit Matera
When planning your trip to Matera, there are a few practical tips and recommendations that can help you make the most of your visit. Whether you’re wondering how to get there or how many days you should spend exploring the city, I’ve got you covered with essential advice for a smooth and enjoyable trip.
How to get to Matera
The city is well-connected by road, making it easily accessible by car from major cities like Bari (about 1 hour and 30 minutes away) and Naples (about 3 hours away). The closest airport is Bari “Karol Wojtyła” Airport, which offers both domestic and international flights, from there, you can take a shuttle or rent a car to reach Matera, take a look to Kayak* or Expedia* for offers.
Alternatively, you can reach Matera by train or bus from Bari or other neighboring cities, although the train station in Matera is located on the outskirts of the city, so you may need to take a bus or taxi from there to the historic center.
LANDING IN BARI? Enjoy a half-day tour from Bari to Matera with a round-trip transfer*. Explore the stunning Sassi of Matera on a guided walking tour, and visit a traditional casa grotta museum and a rupestrian church.
Where to stay in Matera
During my short trip to Matera, I stayed at B&B Casa Diva*. My room was on the ground floor, spacious, and clean. Breakfast was varied and served on a large table shared with all the other guests. The location is particularly perfect, as it’s situated within the Sassi but still close to the modern part of the city and a large paid covered parking garage. This makes it ideal if, like me, you’re arriving by car.
Matera: how many days?
While Matera is a compact city, there’s plenty to see and do, so it’s recommended to spend at least 2 to 3 days to fully experience it. This allows you to explore the Sassi, visit its unique churches, wander through its charming streets, and take in the spectacular viewpoints.
ARE YOU A FOOD LOVER? Enjoy authentic food and drink experiences* like cooking classes, workshops, wine tastings in the caves and dining experiences at locals’ homes.
Souvenirs from Matera
In the past, especially in poorer communities, it was common for each family to bake their own loaves of bread, which they would then take to the city oven. This tradition continued in Matera until the 1950s.
To distinguish their bread, each family would mark the dough with a specific stamp carved into wood. Some used letters, typically the head of the family’s initials, while others chose a symbol recognizable even to those who couldn’t read or write. The stamp would also feature decorative elements, ranging from the Matera rooster to crosses, religious symbols, and those associated with good fortune, prosperity, or nature. Additionally, bread stamps had a more romantic significance. Materans would often give a stamp to a girl when asking for her hand in marriage—similar to an engagement ring. Refusing the stamp meant rejecting the marriage proposal.
Today, these traditions have faded, but some shops in the Sassi still create bread stamps, and you can even request a custom one. What’s more, there are also bread-making workshops* where travelers can get hands-on experience: educational workshops on bread processing tecniques where you will get ‘hands in dough’ working and creating your loaf of bread and tasting typical food and wine.
TO DO: discover the art of hand molding clay and create a clay cuckoo bird whistle*, a typical whistle of Matera. Learn about the tradition of the cucù and its role in society, and take home your creation.
*Links marked with an asterisk are affiliate links. This means that if you choose to book or buy something using these links, I will earn a small commission. There is absolutely no extra cost to you, but your purchase helps support this blog and the effort that goes into creating each post. Thank you for your support!
